3 Incredible Days in the Heart of India-Madhya Pradesh | Day 2: White Tigers of Rewa

(Continued from where I left off in the previous post about Day 1 in Madhya Pradesh) 

It was early morning. I was fast asleep in a log hut somewhere in the middle of a vast tropical forest. My alarm was set for 7.30, though I should have known I wouldn't be needing an alarm clock. I woke up at 7, all on my own, to the lively chatter of birds and the rustle of the wind in the trees outside my hut.

I was in Bandhavgarh National Park - one of the world's foremost tiger reserves - and another exciting day of wildlife experiences lay ahead of me.

Day 2 in the Heart of India

If I wake up early on any given day, I snuggle right back into the covers and sleep for at least another half an hour (usually more) before finally forcing my still-asleep body out of the bed and into the bathroom. On this particular morning, however, I was wide awake within a minute and out of the door in 10, wide-eyed with wonder and camera in hand. The jungle was awake and buzzing with activity.

It took me a minute to tune in to the sounds of the forest. Stepping out of the shade of my hut, I looked around to figure out where all the birds were - and lo and behold, there it was! My first sighting of one of the most magnificent birds of India - and not a common sighting in Madhya Pradesh - the Asian Paradise Flycatcher (now called Indian Paradise Flycatcher), with its never-ending white tail and black head, perched atop the tree right behind my hut. It was quite sensitive to sound too, because it sensed my presence within seconds and flew away to a taller, farther tree. I managed to take a few snaps before it disappeared into the foliage, its majestic tail trailing behind it in the most beautiful flight I have ever seen any bird take.


Encouraged by the lucky sighting, I set out to find more winged ones, though in a hurry now because it was getting sunny and I was expected at breakfast soon. I ended up spotting a bunch of Coppersmith Barbets in a fig tree and a pair of Spotted Doves that looked like they were batting eyes at each other like a romantic couple (believe me).

The Asian (or Indian) Paradise Flycatcher. They are called so because they feed on insects that they catch mid-air (fancy that!) The males are beautiful white and long-tailed, while the females are shorter-tailed with dark wings.

A pair of Spotted Doves.

Coppersmith Barbet feeding on wild figs.

Breakfast at the jungle resort came as another pleasant surprise. Seated in an open restaurant with mud-plastered walls and greenery all around, it was a rather lavish meal (given the setting) with fresh fruit, toast, eggs, milk and cereal, juice, and an Indian addition in the form of poori sabzi (which I generally stay away from - bring on the non-greasy stuff for me!)

Breakfast situation during my first 'glamping' stay at a safari lodge in Bandhavgarh National park. By the time more food arrived, I couldn't wait to click a 'complete' picture. I got busy stuffing my face.😄

A post shared by Mahima Kohli (@kohliaroundtheworld) on May 8, 2018 at 5:33am PDT

After a hearty meal, we took a stroll around the resort, traipsing in and out of green patches, lots of tiger grass and a bunch of small greenhouses. We also spotted an abandoned-looking tractor on the premises that I put to good use (posing on it).

Around 10.30, we checked out of our amazing log huts (still haven't gotten over THAT goodbye) and embarked on a 150-km drive through the dusty hot MP countryside to Rewa, where we planned to go on a safari inside the famous white tiger reserve. Due to navigational troubles and a couple of stops to take pictures of the rural scenery, it took us a few hours to reach Rewa, where the rest of our party was waiting for lunch. We ate at a restaurant opposite to the tiger reserve and hurried over for our safari around 3 PM, when the sun was at its extreme. Luckily, there was a golf cart waiting to ferry us around the reserve and zoo.

The last 3 days have been amazing, filled with all kinds of exciting new experiences. I had a whale of a time travelling through the central-eastern parts of Madhya Pradesh, aptly called India ka ❤. In picture: golf cart that ferried us around inside the white tiger reserve in Rewa. And, of course, me having a good hair day. 

A post shared by Mahima Kohli (@kohliaroundtheworld) on Apr 30, 2018 at 1:28am PDT

As we waited for our safari bus/minivan to take us inside the reserve where the two breeding white tigers are kept, I read up on the history of white tigers in India at the air-conditioned museum cum waiting lounge. What I discovered was nothing short of enlightening - WHITE TIGERS ARE THE SAME AS ROYAL BENGAL TIGERS. They are not albinos or a separate species but indeed the same species. The white colour occurs in some of them because of a lack of pigmentation due to a rare genetic combination. Wikipedia says, "for a white Bengal tiger to be born, both parents must carry the unusual gene for white colouring, which only happens naturally about once in 10,000 births". It means if you breed a white tiger with a yellow tiger, only a yellow tiger will be born. And if you breed two white tigers, it is still not necessary that a white cub will be born.

White tigers have most abundantly been found in Rewa, Madhya Pradesh, which was a princely state until Independence. There are several hundred white tigers spread across zoos all over the world right now, and they are all progeny of the white tigers originally found in India. Geneticists observe that white tigers are whiter in hot climates and grow darker in colder climes, which means white tigers in India are always snow-white while those in, say, Bristol Zoo are darker. It is also believed that the last white tiger to be seen in the wild was shot dead in 1958, after which they have only survived in captivity. Hence, we had to opt for the safari in Rewa zoo.

Another interesting thing I found out on the internet is that there are several restrictions in place on the breeding of white tigers in zoos across the world, because in a bid to breed more and more of these 'exotic' beasts, zookeepers resort to inbreeding between related tigers, which results not only in the rare white colour but other genetic defects like arched backs, cross-eyes and clubbed feet as well. Humans will literally resort to any means to make that extra buck, ugh.

Our minivan finally arrived and we set foot inside the reserve, which is built like a forest, the natural habitat of tigers. Safari goers can sometimes be really unlucky, because the tiger may simply be lying in the shade of a cave or dense foliage to escape the sun, and the tourists may not get a single glimpse of the beautiful beings. But we were lucky, because we heard news of both the tigers being out and about in the sun, which meant we could easily see them. And oh boy, we did!

One of them, the female, was literally sunning herself by the side of the road in the SCORCHING sun. It made no sense, since she could easily have been in a cooler place. But luck was on our side. So she sat there looking bored and even looked up at us a few times. It was one of the most exhilarating moments I have had in my entire travel life. The other white tiger, the male, was also found a few minutes later, sleeping after his afternoon meal in a cooler part of his pit but still visible from our van.

They say the thrill of encountering Bengal tigers in the wild is unparalleled, and I heartily agree. But to be so close to this rare animal that few people have seen or will ever see in their lifetimes - it was really amazing!

On our way back from sighting the white tigers, we were taken to a few other enclosures around the zoo. I saw a sleeping cheetah, another couple of white tigers, a lion, a few Black Bucks, and a yellow Bengal tiger (who seemed nothing like the regal beasts we had encountered less than 24 hours ago inside Bandhavgarh forest). The highlight of this leg of the trip was the Black Buck, an animal I had first seen in my childhood in fat encyclopaedias (I was a nerdy kid) and a Discovery show on TV. I had always fantasised about seeing a Black Buck for real. In Rewa, I finally saw one in all its glory. (Couldn't get Bhai's face out of my mind for a long while after that though 😂)

The Black Buck was so elegant, and such a poser!😍

We set out on our return journey to Jabalpur after a good two hours at the Rewa reserve spent up, close and personal with wildlife. On the way, we witnessed the most stunning sunset over the Vindhya hills. Needless to say, I stopped the car by the roadside to capture the scene. It turned out rather well, thanks to the cyclist.

Sunsets have a magical quality about them. No matter where you are, and in what kind of a mood or situation, when the sun sets you will find yourself stopping to take notice. I took this shot on the way back from Rewa to Jabalpur. We were passing through a town and evening traffic was upon us. But I stopped the car by the curb and waited for breaks in between passing vehicles to capture this stunning sunset over the Vindhya hills. The appearance of the cyclist was pure bonus.😄

A post shared by Mahima Kohli (@kohliaroundtheworld) on May 3, 2018 at 4:34am PDT

Day 2 in the heart of India went by in a flash, and in hindsight, it was as exhilarating and full of new experiences as Day 1 in Bandhavgarh had been. Back in Jabalpur for the night, I was happy, relaxed, and as excited as ever for more adventure. In the end, Day 3 turned out to be less about adventure and much more about local sights and places made famous by Bollywood. But it revealed a side to Madhya Pradesh that I could scarce have imagined the existence of. More details in the next edition of my three-part MP travelogue!

***

The third post in this series about how I spent Day 3 in the Heart of India is coming up super soon, I promise. Meanwhile, head over to my Instagram and show some loooouve! 😍😁

3 Incredible Days in the Heart of India-Madhya Pradesh | Day 1: Tigers of Bandhavgarh

Remember the Madhya Pradesh tourism ad in which a captivating voice used to sing "Hindustan ka dil dekho" to a catchy tune? That was way back in 2007 (feel old already?) I had been to Gwalior and around with family before, but this ad convinced me that I hadn't yet seen the real MP. I was eager to go see everything the voice sang about in the ad and to make a video of my own just like it.

Of course, I was just a teenager with ideas. Life went on over the years, and my fascination with Madhya Pradesh got overshadowed by my growing love for the Himalayas. That was, until last week, when I finally set foot in the heart of Incredible India.

The reason that finally brought me to Madhya Pradesh was a work tour to Jabalpur, which we conveniently scheduled on Friday so as to give us the extended weekend to explore the less frequented east-central region of Madhya Pradesh. And by God, one hell of a 'work' trip it turned out to be!

After wrapping up work early on Friday evening, we set out to explore what little part of Jabalpur we could in an evening. We first drove down to 'Balancing Rock' to witness the famous volcanic rock that has remained balanced on its base rock for hundreds (or thousands?) of years despite very little surface contact between the two. I had heard about this rock, and even though it is an attraction you can hardly spend 10-15 minutes at, I think it holds a sense of wonder and is well worth the trip.

One of Jabalpur's most popular attractions, the Balancing Rock has visitors coming from all over just to catch a glimpse of this gigantic rock balancing on a tiny portion of its base rock. The complex has several such huge boulders formed by the erosion of volcanic rock formations. These otherwise nondescript rocks are said to have survived earthquakes of magnitude up to 6.5 on the Richter scale without losing balance, fancy that! 😀

A post shared by Mahima Kohli (@kohliaroundtheworld) on Apr 29, 2018 at 4:58am PDT

From there, we drove to Rani Durgavati Fort nearby, where we had to hike up a series of stairs for 15 minutes (including frequent breaks to catch our breaths) to come face to face with a beautiful little hill fortress cum watchtower. Built in the 11th century by the ruler Madan Singh, the fortress was renamed by the MP state government to honour Rani Durgavati, an indomitable Gond ruler and a female icon of the region.

The view from the top of Rani Durgavati Fort, Jabalpur. Rani Durgavati is relatively unknown among women stalwarts of Indian history but her story is awe-inspiring. Born into the Chandel dynasty in 16th century and married to a Rajgond ruler, she took over the reigns of the Gond kingdom when her husband died unexpectedly. She led her army in combat and won several battles by the sheer power of strategy and courage despite having lesser military strength. Finally, when her army was vanquished at the hands of a Mughal battalion, she killed herself on the battlefield with her own dagger. To honour her legacy, the MP government had Jabalpur university as well as this fort renamed after her. Sunset views from this little fortress were stunning. 😍🌄

A post shared by Mahima Kohli (@kohliaroundtheworld) on Apr 28, 2018 at 3:31am PDT

We ended the eventful day with dinner at 70mm Dining, a trendy restaurant which seemed like Jabalpur's version of an up-and-coming Bollywood-themed cafe where young (and young-at-heart) junta could hang out. It wasn't the best meal I've had, but full marks to 70mm Dining for trying.

Day 1 in the Heart of India

On Saturday morning, I woke up early to embark on a road trip to Bandhavgarh National Park with my colleague and partner-in-travel. A quaint little jungle resort was to be our home for the night.

The 3-3.5 hour road journey was paved for most part by grassland and forest. The region is known for its abundance of Mahua and Sal trees that shed their leaves in the winter and begin to grow them back, first red then green, at the beginning of summer. The road was narrow, smooth, and stretched out up to the horizon. The bird-watcher in me kept looking out of the window, eager to catch sightings. But there were no birds. It was too hot to be sitting out in almost-bare trees, even though it was not half-past-nine yet. Villages and farmlands appeared on the sides of the road every now and then. The locals cannot be too well off around here, I thought to myself as our car slowed down to let a herd of severely malnourished cows pass.

We stopped on the way to chill by this little water body. I spotted plenty of birds (finally) and buffaloes cooling themselves in the water too.

The driver told us the road led up to Dindori and Mandla, both tribal districts. We asked if there was naxalite activity in the region, and he denied its being a problem. Some 30 km outside Tala, the gateway into Bandhavgarh National Park, we picked up our companion who was managing our stay arrangements. He was a wildlife and birding enthusiast, and the first thing he told us was not to get disappointed if we didn't spot a tiger during the evening safari. There were also cheetal, wild boars, Gaur bison, leopards and several species of birds to be seen. Spotting a tiger was entirely a matter of luck, and you could end up going on several safaris before catching glimpse of a single tiger. 

Authentic jungle cabin experience

We were famished by the time we reached Bandhavgarh National Park. We dropped off our bags in our respective log huts that were erected on cemented platforms with glass walls all over, a cottage-like roof on the outside and a tarpaulin ceiling inside to give them an authentic jungle camp feel. It felt like I was 'glamping' in one of those fancy resorts in Bali, Kenya or Sri Lanka that I've seen so many Instagram travel celebs post pictures of.

As we were led to the restaurant for lunch, I found out that the vegetables they use in their food are mostly grown in-house on little farms and in greenhouses. We had a simple lunch comprising seasonal vegetables, rajma, the usual North Indian food accompaniments, and a delish fruit custard for dessert. The restaurant overlooks a small lotus pond, beyond which is a patch of tiger grass that constantly reminds us of our being in Bandhavgarh National Park.

 

 

Incredible Tiger Safari through Bandhavgarh National Park

Around 3.15 PM, we left for the tiger safari that starts at 4 and lasts till 6.30 or 7. We reached the gate of the national park, where you're supposed to get tickets and approval of the forest ranger on duty for your safari, only to discover that the ranger was absent and there were scores of people waiting to get their permissions before us. After over half an hour of speculations and mild cursing on how the ranger could be absent at the time of the daily evening safari, it was heard that there had been a forest fire somewhere in the jungle and the ranger was required to be there. So permissions were sought on the phone and after a long, tiring delay in the intense heat, we were finally on our way to spot tigers in the wild.

With us were an experienced driver, who had started driving his own private jeep after working with the park rangers for many years, and a guide easily into his sixties, who had been born in the region and had been roaming these forests since the age of 14. During our first 10 km into the park, we saw plenty of cheetal, bison, peacocks, sambar, wild boars, and birds like partridges, jungle bush quail, painted spurfowl and several others I couldn't recognise. Then a safari group approaching from the opposite side told us two tigers had been spotted sleeping under a tree some 10 km away. We all decided it was worth skipping some wildlife spotting in the interest of heading first to where we had certain knowledge of a tiger being spotted. And so we rushed through the jungle at max velocity, making it one hell of a thrilling ride. 

Thrilling ride in an open jeep through Bandhavgarh National Park

The story of how we came face to face not with one or two, but 4 grown female Royal Bengal tigers, and how we marginally escaped being shredded to pieces by the majestic beasts, makes for another blog post that I will write if enough readers ask me to. For now, it will suffice to say I have NEVER felt such a crazy rush of adrenaline in my life.

Have you ever almost been killed by a Royal Bengal Tiger? How about if there were 4 of them, all ferocious females? No? I was. Last weekend at the Bandhavgarh National Park. And it was the most incredible rush of adrenaline I've ever known.

A post shared by Mahima Kohli (@kohliaroundtheworld) on May 1, 2018 at 4:16am PDT

After a wildly successful safari that ended with light showers and a windstorm, we returned to our log huts for a quiet night in the company of croaking insects, night birds, strange noises around the huts and the thrill of sleeping in the middle of a forest in a log cabin

Day 1 had ended in a whirlwind and we were excited for more. Luckily, Day 2 did not disappoint.

***

(Stay tuned for the next post on our run-in with White Tigers and Black Bucks on Day 2 of the most incredible trip to Madhya Pradesh)

Book Review: From Quetta to Delhi - Reena Nanda

"The lilting rhythms of Punjabi folk songs, the Siapewalli, and Naani wailing about her bad kismet caused by the chudail and dain. Partition changed the old traditions of Punjabiyat but in the pages of this book they come alive..."

Punjabiyat.

Have you heard this word before?

Is the modern tandoori-chicken-eating, whiskey-guzzling, perpetually jovial sardar your idea of Punjabi culture, Punjabiyat? Do you know the deep cultural history and the set of ethos and traditions that underlie this 21st century forever-happy, forever-loud community that is spread out not only across the country but the world?

There is much more to Punjabis than the casual hedonists they are portrayed as across media. Even if to know that alone - and to get a little peek into the beliefs and mores of this beautiful and diverse culture - you must read Reena Nanda's memoir, From Quetta to Delhi (A Partition Story).

When you wake up too early and decide to catch up on your reading with birds and trees for company. . . Finished reading this book by @bloomsburyindia today. It is the heartwarming story of the author's mother's growing-up years across the Indo-Pak border in early-20th century Quetta, her family's migration to Jhang after the 1935 earthquake, and their final migration to Delhi following Partition.

A post shared by Mahima Kohli (@mahimakohli) on Mar 27, 2018 at 1:32am PDT

I'm the child of a Partition-hit family. My interest in the subject was first piqued when I started reading Saadat Hasan Manto's Partition sketches back in 2015. I have read a lot of Partition literature since, about hatred, violence and loss, and about love, brotherhood and unity in the face of extreme adversity. I have listened, with goosebumps, to 70- and 80-something Partition survivors relating their stories of love, loss, and a longing for the lives they had led before the big crossover altered them forever.

Through all of this, the thing that has always been most striking to me is the syncretism that is so deeply entrenched in the culture and belief systems of the subcontinent. Sikh, Muslim, Hindu - their Gods and their religious practices may be different but they have forever inter-mingled and absorbed each other's beliefs and cultural practices into their own. And the author has brought it out really well in her book.

From Quetta to Delhi is the story of the author's mother, Shakunt, who was a little girl growing up in the 1920s in an affluent family of pragmatic, progressive men and religious, superstitious women, in an upscale multi-cultural neighbourhood of Quetta (Balochistan, now part of Pakistan). How the family, originally from Jhang, happened to settle in Quetta, and how they were forced to move back to Jhang, and eventually on to Delhi after the Partition forms the basic plot of the book.

The introduction and the first chapter of the book remain the most interesting parts of the story for me, for they paint a vivid picture of what Balochistan looked and felt like at the turn of the 20th century. The sights and sounds, the clothes, the urban landscape, and most of all, the people, their traditions and ways of living. It was like a whole new window opened up in my world, taking me back into another time in a place far, far away from where I was born, and yet familiar in so many ways. Though my grandparents don't belong to Balochistan, I know their cultural roots, even language, are very similar to what Reena Nanda has so poignantly described in From Quetta to Delhi. 

The plot is interwoven with a lot of insights into the mores and rather backward (even casteist) beliefs and practices of well-to-do upper-caste Punjabi families. She has also pointed out how the more educated men in the author's family countered those beliefs by inter-dining, forging lasting bonds with friends from other communities, and educating and empowering their daughters. I like the objective retelling of these dichotomies inherent to the Indian society, though at times I sensed an appeasement and justification underlining the author's depiction of these practices. The times we currently live in call for a brutally honest portrayal of age-old practices that have no place in the modern world. I'll admit I was left a bit disappointed.

The speed at which the plot moves also left a lot to be desired. There were times when I felt the story dragged on, and I found myself abandoning the book for several days at a time. It is possible that I may have been preoccupied with work at the moment, but I have often disregarded all work commitments for a book that forced me to - and this one certainly didn't.

From Quetta to Delhi is written in a simplistic style, and to me it seemed as if the author has yet to develop a unique style of her own. Given that it's non-fiction and a memoir, it could have been much more evocative and gripping (cue: Aanchal Malhotra's work on the Partition). But a worthy read for its many merits nevertheless. At 170 pages, it's a really short book and is best read in one go. Take it along on a journey, or read it on a Sunday afternoon with umpteen cups of chai/coffee, maybe?

One extraordinary thing that really struck me about From Quetta to Delhi? It may have been written simply, but the text has been proofread to the T. I didn't spot any errors (which is to say a lot, since I find SO MANY typos in even the best of books). And if you know me even a little, you'll know I am finicky about grammar and proofreading. This book was a delight on that count.

In a nutshell, a beautiful memoir that I have already recommended to a couple of my friends with an interest in Partition stories. I'll end my review with my favourite lines from the book. See if they strike an all-too-familiar chord?

~

"My family, and other West Punjabis, naturally considered their traumas and travails as unique. But in fact, they had joined the worldwide brotherhood of refugees. And they would not be the last. Future struggles for power and conflicts would continue to ruthlessly crush the ordinary people, who were helpless before their egomaniacal leaders. 'Refugee' would become the leitmotif not only of the twentieth century, but also of the twenty-first. In the anguished, hopeless faces of the Palestinians, Syrians, Kurds, and Yazidis, I see my grandparents and parents."

~

From Quetta to Delhi (A Partition Story) by Reena Nanda
Published 2018 by Bloomsbury India.
But it here.
Read all my book reviews here.

I said yes to a challenge and my world changed forever

Have you ever found yourself wondering how Edmund Hillary or Tenzing Norgay might have felt a few seconds before they conquered Everest?

I don't claim to have done anything remotely as momentous as they did. Of course. But I said yes to a challenge - I volunteered to do something totally uncharacteristic of me, something I always thought I wasn't cut out for - and I saw magic unfold. It changed my world, it changed the way I look at travel, and it changed my worldview forever. Most important, it changed the way I look at myself.

I have been travelling for some years now, and have experienced many a new culture, met many a stranger, and dealt with many a challenge on the move. But I recently came to the uncomfortable realisation that I've stayed within my comfort zone most of this time. I was strutting through new places, wonderful new experiences, and the company of fascinating strangers, wearing the thick coat of a hundred limitations and boundaries wrapped tightly around me.

I found that I had been travelling without really challenging myself. And I decided to change that. I decided to challenge all the notions I had about my physical limitations, and joined a group of friends and strangers on an out-and-out adventure trip to Uttarakhand. There, I stayed in a tent in below-zero-degree weather for two nights, embarking on the very first morning on an arduous trek of 5 kilometres through snow, ice and slippery slopes, up to Tungnath Temple.

I had so many misgivings! I was afraid I would slip and fall down the snow slopes. I was afraid I would twist my ankle or have a hard fall on ice. I was afraid I would suffer from breathlessness (there's precedent) and would have to stop halfway and return to camp. There was just so much I thought could go wrong. But I steeled myself, and I said 'yes' to the spirit of adventure. And then magic happened.

I made it to the top - in one piece, with no injuries and no regrets - and then came that moment, as I approached the temple at the end of the trail, when I began to understand how Hillary and Norgay must have felt.

I left liberated - from my own thought-up boundaries and from all those years of body-shaming and the constant reminders of my physical shortcomings. I felt free of my physical and psychological limitations. All of a sudden I knew I could do this. If I could climb a mountain, I could very well swim the ocean or jump off of a cliff. I felt an energy course through my body. I felt limitless.

Riding on that adrenaline rush, I went on to try my hand at river rafting on the same trip (and can proudly claim I rafted through 'The Wall', known as the most challenging rapid on the Rishikesh rafting circuit). I also went alpine skiing and trekked uphill through the forest in Auli a couple of days after Tungnath. On the climb downhill, I got talking to my ski instructor, Pavan, and discovered a new perspective on the Himalayan ecology and the different ways in which global warming is affecting it, as also the local economy and people's lives. We talked about our differing experiences of the Himalayas and of Delhi, where he had worked for 5 years, and through him, I also learned the local sentiment regarding tourists. Guess what I found? They don't hate us! As long as we are responsible, respectful, and open to the beauty and serenity of the mountains and nature, they love us and are indeed thankful for our presence. 😄

I said yes to rafting, and to jumping into the water (I don't know how to swim!)

Me and my 'Blizzard' skis.

Through all of this, I discovered one thing.

When you are open-minded and say yes to new experiences and challenges, you unveil whole new sides to the world and to yourself. With every new peak you conquer, every new language you learn, and every new culture you experience, you become a better version of yourself. And you begin to love the world a little more. The more of the world you'll see, believe me, the more you will WANT TO see. It's a never-ending circle, but a virtuous one for sure. Tungnath may have been an easy trek, but it felt like a personal Everest to me. And now that I have conquered it, I want to do more, see more, climb more, and travel ever more. Do I sound insane? But aren't the maddest people also often the most sorted and sane?

This trip, and all the discoveries I made with it, have spurred me on to try more adventure, turn more strangers into friends, and explore newer pastures. In fact I am already planning my next trip - SOLO this time. So much more discovery in the offing, I can't wait!

If you want travel inspiration, check out my YouTube channel. Don't forget to Subscribe if you like what you see! I'm new at vlogging and would love and appreciate all your support. 

As always, keep travelling the world and spreading the love! 💚

******

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5 ways to deal with everyday stress like a boss

You live a life full of stress. It's time you admitted it (if you don't know it already).

Irrespective of whether you're a student, a professional in a corporate job, a stay-at-home parent, or a freelancer or full-time travel blogger. Where there is responsibility of any kind, where there is money to be made or bills to be paid, there is bound to be some kind of stress.

Personally, I never thought I worry. I always thought of myself as tension-free, carefree, a zen sort of a person. I always take life as it comes (mostly), I prefer not to think too far ahead (because it isn’t going to pan out right anyway), and I love my peace of mind too much to riddle it with worry.

But guess what? Lately I’ve discovered I’m a house of stress.

I don’t worry that often, although I do tend to overthink a lot. But what I do suffer from is mental exhaustion. I have my feet in too many boats, it seems. I have a full-time job that to others may seen ‘chill’ and the very opposite of stressful, but it’s become tiring with time. In the little free time I have left in the evenings, I have freelance assignments to finish – they tend to crop up at any time – and social media appearances to keep up. And then there’s family, the household, and twenty different things I have to do for them or for the household on the weekends.

To compound matters, I haven’t been of sound health in a few years and battle with a chronic ankle sprain that necessitates care and precaution every now and then. But every time I think I should take a break for a day or two, rest my body and mind, all of a sudden there will be a wedding in the family or a radio assignment or a travel opportunity that I cannot give a miss. ‘Rest’ as a concept has become alien to me. So, without actually worrying too much, I have still managed to become a walking picture of mental stress, physical exhaustion and repulsion to any kind of social activity that involves people or going out or dressing up.

I’m tired. Period.

Mental exhaustion also compounds my existing depressive tendencies to drain all of my energy and willpower. There are periods when I don’t feel like doing anything - absolutely anything - and nothing can make me feel any differently. I feel lost, sunk, hopeless, and aimless. And it shows in my daily output – I don’t blog for weeks at a time, I don’t write or create anything, I feel each day stretch out in front of me, empty, and I don’t smile from my eyes. If you ask me what’s wrong, and if I do decide to answer honestly, all you'll get out of me is, “I feel lost". 

Does any of this sound relatable to you? Do you feel the same, sometimes, perhaps all the time? Do you struggle with exhaustion on a regular basis? You may be stressed without knowing it. And if you didn’t accept it and do something to manage it in time, you may unwittingly slide into depression and/or anxiety. 

After some brainstorming, some trial and error, and lots of practice, I have found 5 sureshot ways to deal with everyday stress like a total boss. They work - take my word for it. Sharing them here with the hope that they will help you in managing your stress levels like they have helped me.

1. Build a support system and confide in them

You might have heard the term "tribe" being thrown around a lot lately and might even have wondered what the big deal about having a 'tribe' was. Nothing much really, except that everyone should have one. Simply put, your tribe is a close circle of people who care for you like family and will always look out for you. For most of my life, I didn't have any such friends, and only I know how hard it was for me growing up. It took me 2 decades to fully realise the importance of fostering relationships and keeping people close. But once I knew it, I worked on coming out of my shell and building my own tribe of loyal confidantes. Now I have a 'tribe' (you know who you are), and my life is abundant with positivity, support and love. In my worst moments, I have the support and love I need to pick myself up again and tread on. You need to learn to foster bonds with people you trust. Step out of your comfort zone and make conscious efforts to keep your confidantes close. They will be there for you on days when you need an ear to vent out to, a shoulder to cry on, or advice on the smallest and biggest of things. And that will make living a little bit easier.

2. Take up a hobby or physical activity and follow it with a vengeance

This one's a no-brainer! Discipline and productivity create a sense of order and stability in life. All you need to do is find out something that interests you. It could be a sport you've played as a kid or a hobby you abandoned somewhere down the line. It could be a craft, a musical instrument you've always wanted to learn, or a talent you want to cultivate. I would recommend taking up something out of your comfort zone, for it will push you into new arenas and help build confidence. But don't pick something entirely out of your comfort zone, or you may end up abandoning the activity within days or weeks! Next, find a reason to keep yourself inspired. Set weekly and monthly goals and practise to get better. In addition to beating stress, who knows, it might become a whole new passion for you. Or, if you're really lucky, an alternative career option too. 😁

3. Take up exercise of some kind – any kind

The doctor says it, the counsellor says it, and the sixty-something uncle sitting on the park bench will say it - exercise is super important, not just for the body but the mind as well. Physical exercise releases all the happy hormones you need to help reduce stress and boost your mood. Exercise is also known to help you sleep better and stay energetic throughout the day. If you're already an active person, I admire you for it. But if you're a lazy bum by nature, of if you're fit-looking or "thin" and therefore think you don't need to exercise, you need to rethink. Exercise is essential for everyone - fat, slim, old, young, teen - everyone needs to move their muscles in order to improve body function, mental capacity, and overall immunity and health. It is generally accepted that walking or moderate exercise for half an hour every day, 5 days a week is sufficient physical workout for your body. If you want to achieve specific goals, like weight loss or muscle toning or learning a sport like swimming or cycling, more power to you! Get out of bed and get at it! You'll see definite results in your physical and mental well-being within a few days, I guarantee.

4. Regulate your sleep cycle to feel more active

I know I sound like your mom when I say this (I definitely sound like my own mother), but it's true. Irregular and erratic sleep is a major reason for most mental health problems. I know sleeping early and waking up early is an insurmountable task for most millenials. Sleeping for an adequate number of hours every night is another uphill task. There's so much to see, so much to do... I know, I know! I am in the same boat as you. If there's one thing I've struggled with for a decade now, it is sleep discipline. As far back as I can remember, I've been a night person, even insomniac at times. It seemed kinda cool back then. It doesn't anymore, because I've come to realise how negative an effect staying up late nights has had on my body. Believe me, you cannot give yourself a better gift than that of sleep discipline. Learn to manage your time better and fit in all your activities and work commitments within the day so that you can hit the bed by 11 or 12 at best. Sleep for 7 to 9 hours, according to your body's need, and I guarantee you will wake up energetic, happy, and with an entire day stretched out in front of you to achieve everything on your list. It's really that easy to kiss stress goodbye!

5. Learn to say NO

This one's a tough cookie, and came as my biggest personal Eureka moment. You need to practise saying no to people and things that are a drain on your time, energy, or positivity. Haven't we all been in situations we don't want to be in yet feel like we can't wriggle out of? An unplanned social activity. A late-night chat session with a friend. A drinking and dancing spree about town. Things that you do not want to indulge in at the moment or plans that crop up unceremoniously and eat away at your 'me' time or exercise time or sleep time. These social commitments are invisible monsters that keep growing until you realise, all of a sudden, that you're behind on your work commitments, haven't been sleeping well, haven't been exercising or practising your hobby, and feel listless and low on energy. And most often, you won't even understand how you ended up in that situation! In my opinion, there's a single, simple solution to this dilemma: prioritise. Decide what is most important to you, and discard all other plans. If your friends are supportive of your well-being, they will understand and give you space. If they don't, they aren't really your friends, are they?

I have been practising these tips for some months now, and the results are astounding. I am happier than ever (though I do have my dark moments, but they pass). I am getting more work done, laying down foundations for my future plans, and paying special attention to my health, fitness and nutrition. I've lost some weight (or so they tell me), gained a set of friends I absolutely trust, and feel like a total boss lady on a daily basis. Does it get any better?

It's time you dealt with the multi-headed monster called stress too!

I would love to know if you decide to take up any or all of these tips, and if you see any results. Let me know in the comments if you want me to write in detail about HOW TO practise one or more of the tips I've shared above to deal with stress and anxiety. I'd love to share my personal experiences if they can be of help. 😊

Do connect with me on Instagram (I'm supremely active there) or Facebook. Let's get talking!

5 incredible Bombay cafés that made me forget Delhi

I'm a Delhi girl, born and brought up in the city of Ghalib and smoke. But ever since I discovered Bombay, I've never looked at Delhi the same way.

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I love Bombay. Just everything about it - the sense of freedom, the people, the cultural diversity, the architecture, the streets, and the incredible cafés and nightlife. But by nightlife, I don't mean clubs, because I'm not so big on partying. When I lived in Bombay, the things I went out looking for were quietude, good service, and amazing food (good choice of music also did it for me). And the best part of life in Bombay is that no matter what hour of the night you decide to step out at, you'd find people and food, somewhere, anywhere.

So many people who come to Bombay complain about the food and the daily struggles of living in this city. But they don't know the half of how amazing this city can be. So I thought I'd share some things that I think make Bombay an absolutely worthwhile experience.

When I think of my time in Bombay, I am reminded foremost of the places I ate at. There were a handful of cafés that I always went back to and even now long to visit just one more time. As humans, we all long for a sense of belonging. These places gave me that sense of familiarity and belonging. Without realising it, I had come to think of them as home away from home. And moving back to Delhi - my 'home' - made me realise my idea of 'home' has changed forever. My soul now belongs in Bombay.

If you've lived in Bombay or have even passed through it fleetingly, I hope you will agree - that city is something else. So here I am, eager to shout out from rooftops why I think Bombay is amazing. I'll start with a list of the five incredible cafés that made Bombay home for me and made me forget Delhi. I hope they do the same for you.

The Marina Upper Deck - Rooftop Café (Colaba) 

This was the first café I visited on my own on my fourth day in Bombay. It was August, the sky was heavily overcast, and I was strolling along Colaba Seaface, the sea breeze caressing my cheeks. I'd been told to check out this place called 'Marina café' that was supposed to be great. I was looking around for a signboard, and suddenly it was in front of, peeking from under a heavy tarpaulin roof on the fourth floor terrace of Hotel Sea Palace. I climbed up to find the place empty and the staff idling around - it was a slow Thursday afternoon - but one glance at the vast Arabian Sea from that height, and I was in love. 

The view from the Marina Upper Deck - Rooftop Cafe.

The place is covered with tarpaulin in the monsoons.

And then, voila! It becomes an open-air rooftop cafe again in the winter.

Over the course of the next year, Marina became the 'hidden' gem where I took only the most special people in my life, or sometimes those I wanted to impress. It became the café I recommended to friends for their romantic dates and drinking nights. They play a lot of 80s' and 90s' English music, from Guns n Roses to even Backstreet Boys, in addition to contemporary classics. I for one always enjoyed the musical vibe at Marina. There is great variety in food and drinks, though that wasn't what I looked forward to whenever I visited. It will always be the sea, the music, and the flickering candlelight on the tables that I'll miss the Marina Rooftop café for.

Mockingbird Café Bar (Churchgate)

This place will always be my favourite book café, no matter how many new ones I discover. It was at walking distance from my office at Churchgate, and I spent many a solitary lunch hour reading and gorging on soul food at the Mockingbird Café. The walls here are done up in tasteful decor with bookish quotes and classic movie posters on the walls. With seating on two levels, the café also has an in-house library that houses books from the owner, Deepak Purohit's personal collection. A rather good-looking man with salt and pepper hair, he would often roam about the café and I had the occasional conversation with him, mostly about books and food. My favourite part about Mockingbird, however, is their knowledgeable and really friendly serving staff.

There was not a single item I ate at Mockingbird that I didn't like. They do comfort food with gorgeous presentation and a surprising mix of flavours and ingredients. My favourite memory from Mockingbird café bar, aside from all the afternoons I spent there escaping office, is of the serving staff, Mr Parvesh. Well-spoken, elderly, and fluent in English, he began talking to me one afternoon about a pasta he recommended I have - an amazing spinach spaghetti that I did try and loved (picture below). He went on to ask me where I had bought my round glasses from. He wanted that exact same pair of glasses - the green would even match his outfit - and was willing to go to great lengths to procure it. I took his number and put him in touch with my optometrist in Delhi, though unfortunately he had run out of stock and didn't think the same piece would return. But the gratitude Mr Parvesh expressed to me over our many next encounters and the unlikely little friendship we forged thus will always remain among my favourite memories.

The menu is absolutely hilarious! And I admit to having read it a fair number of times.

I get hungry just thinking about the food at Mockingbird Cafe.

Oh, the afternoons I spent here alone. 💜 Best time of my life.

Salt Water Café (Churchgate)

Salt Water Café was my go-to place for when I was feeling fancy (or when I wanted to feel fancy - same thing). A stone's throw away from Marine Drive and next door to the Mockingbird café bar, Salt Water has gorgeous wooded interiors, two-level seating, brilliant aesthetics, European food to die for, and a selection of teas and coffees that I have never found together at one place. I've had the most wonderful lunches of my life there, alone as well as with the best people. The place has a very sophisticated feel about it, but the prices are not exorbitant and their plating is literally art. My favourite moment from Salt Water Café was when I ran into my friend Sanjay there one evening, absolutely out of the blue (hope you're reading this, Sanjay!). He was with a girl - our batchmate from university - and he didn't have words to explain why he had come all the way from Malad to Churchgate to meet her when he never had time to come see me. 😆😝

Banoffee Pie!

Grandmama's Café (Lower Parel)

The staff probably still remember my face, given the fervour with which I frequented this place. Grandmama's Café is a French-style eatery with alfresco seating, rustic woodwork in pastel hues, big Parisian overhanging lamps, colourful art deco tiled tables, and amazing food. In my first few visits, I ordered one of only three things from the menu - Grandmama's pancakes, Cheese garlic bread, or Grandmama's poached eggs (only for breakfast) - I was so infatuated with them. But as I visited more often, mostly to relax after office, I came to love their coffee, milkshakes, selection of exotic teas (try Strawberry Champagne and Moroccan Mint), pesto pasta, and so, so much more! And then, one day when I was particularly homesick, I ordered Rajma Chawal - yes, that's on the menu at Grandmama's - and felt as if I had been transported back home. Achaar, onion rings, fried papad, and creamy rajma served with rice the way my mom would cook it - just like that, Grandmama's became home.

My initials right up there on the wall - my favourite corner of Grandmama's Cafe.

Grandmama's poached eggs - I often made the mistake of asking for them in the evening, and they always had to remind me they were breakfast.

There is one thing I'm sure very few people know about Grandmama's Café. There is a hanging on the wall with the initials "MK" embroidered on it and a metal plate underneath indicating that these are the initials of their beloved grandmother. Intrigued by the appearance of my initials on their wall, I put in some uber effort in Googling, only to discover that this wonderful lady's name is M. Kohli. If you haven't yet figured it out, well, here it is - I have the same name. And while this little connecting link has nothing to do with my love for Grandmama's, I do love that I share my last name and initials with the boss lady who's behind this wonderful little café that I consider my foremost home in Bombay.

 

The Rolling Pin (Lower Parel)

This was the last entrant on my list of Bombay cafés that became home (before I left the city). Located bang opposite High street Pheonix mall in Lower Parel, it has some really tough competition in the neighbourhood and is often ignored by mall-goers. But I happened to notice the glass facade of The Rolling Pin (with an image of a chef wielding an actual rolling pin) from across the road one day and was enchanted by the term 'Boulangerie'. I mean, how many cafés have the guts to call themselves a boulangerie and risk being given a miss by a huge chunk of the population that doesn't understand what boulangerie means or thinks it is too "fancy" for them?

Rolling Pin, you had me at boulangerie.

This is one of those rare cafés where you hear the same music that's playing on their screens, and I've spent many an evening here watching Sia and Drake shake it while I stuffed my face with my partner in every crime. While I did try other stuff on their menu, including really great desserts (don't have any photos though), their mezze platter had my heart from the moment I laid eyes on it. With its creamy feta balls, perfect Lebanese dips, and crisp lavash and pita bread with za'atar spices on top - it's the best, most eclectic mezze platter I've ever had. What's more special is that The Rolling Pin has an all-vegetarian menu with a focus on healthy offerings. The day I discovered this place was the end of the era of eating out at Palladium or High Street Phoenix. I'd found my fix.

Check out each of these cafés if you haven't already. And tell me how it was! 😁

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I'd love to hear about places around Bombay that make YOU feel at home. I also have a long list of other somewhat eclectic, iconic cafés of Bombay that I think you absolutely must check out. Should I do another post on Bombay cafés?

Is there any other aspect of Bombay that you'd like me to write about? Leave a comment or message me on Instagram or Facebook. I am always happy to hear from someone who's reading all that I babble about here! 😀💕