3 Incredible Days in the Heart of India-Madhya Pradesh | Day 2: White Tigers of Rewa

(Continued from where I left off in the previous post about Day 1 in Madhya Pradesh) 

It was early morning. I was fast asleep in a log hut somewhere in the middle of a vast tropical forest. My alarm was set for 7.30, though I should have known I wouldn't be needing an alarm clock. I woke up at 7, all on my own, to the lively chatter of birds and the rustle of the wind in the trees outside my hut.

I was in Bandhavgarh National Park - one of the world's foremost tiger reserves - and another exciting day of wildlife experiences lay ahead of me.

Day 2 in the Heart of India

If I wake up early on any given day, I snuggle right back into the covers and sleep for at least another half an hour (usually more) before finally forcing my still-asleep body out of the bed and into the bathroom. On this particular morning, however, I was wide awake within a minute and out of the door in 10, wide-eyed with wonder and camera in hand. The jungle was awake and buzzing with activity.

It took me a minute to tune in to the sounds of the forest. Stepping out of the shade of my hut, I looked around to figure out where all the birds were - and lo and behold, there it was! My first sighting of one of the most magnificent birds of India - and not a common sighting in Madhya Pradesh - the Asian Paradise Flycatcher (now called Indian Paradise Flycatcher), with its never-ending white tail and black head, perched atop the tree right behind my hut. It was quite sensitive to sound too, because it sensed my presence within seconds and flew away to a taller, farther tree. I managed to take a few snaps before it disappeared into the foliage, its majestic tail trailing behind it in the most beautiful flight I have ever seen any bird take.


Encouraged by the lucky sighting, I set out to find more winged ones, though in a hurry now because it was getting sunny and I was expected at breakfast soon. I ended up spotting a bunch of Coppersmith Barbets in a fig tree and a pair of Spotted Doves that looked like they were batting eyes at each other like a romantic couple (believe me).

The Asian (or Indian) Paradise Flycatcher. They are called so because they feed on insects that they catch mid-air (fancy that!) The males are beautiful white and long-tailed, while the females are shorter-tailed with dark wings.

A pair of Spotted Doves.

Coppersmith Barbet feeding on wild figs.

Breakfast at the jungle resort came as another pleasant surprise. Seated in an open restaurant with mud-plastered walls and greenery all around, it was a rather lavish meal (given the setting) with fresh fruit, toast, eggs, milk and cereal, juice, and an Indian addition in the form of poori sabzi (which I generally stay away from - bring on the non-greasy stuff for me!)

Breakfast situation during my first 'glamping' stay at a safari lodge in Bandhavgarh National park. By the time more food arrived, I couldn't wait to click a 'complete' picture. I got busy stuffing my face.😄

A post shared by Mahima Kohli (@kohliaroundtheworld) on May 8, 2018 at 5:33am PDT

After a hearty meal, we took a stroll around the resort, traipsing in and out of green patches, lots of tiger grass and a bunch of small greenhouses. We also spotted an abandoned-looking tractor on the premises that I put to good use (posing on it).

Around 10.30, we checked out of our amazing log huts (still haven't gotten over THAT goodbye) and embarked on a 150-km drive through the dusty hot MP countryside to Rewa, where we planned to go on a safari inside the famous white tiger reserve. Due to navigational troubles and a couple of stops to take pictures of the rural scenery, it took us a few hours to reach Rewa, where the rest of our party was waiting for lunch. We ate at a restaurant opposite to the tiger reserve and hurried over for our safari around 3 PM, when the sun was at its extreme. Luckily, there was a golf cart waiting to ferry us around the reserve and zoo.

The last 3 days have been amazing, filled with all kinds of exciting new experiences. I had a whale of a time travelling through the central-eastern parts of Madhya Pradesh, aptly called India ka ❤. In picture: golf cart that ferried us around inside the white tiger reserve in Rewa. And, of course, me having a good hair day. 

A post shared by Mahima Kohli (@kohliaroundtheworld) on Apr 30, 2018 at 1:28am PDT

As we waited for our safari bus/minivan to take us inside the reserve where the two breeding white tigers are kept, I read up on the history of white tigers in India at the air-conditioned museum cum waiting lounge. What I discovered was nothing short of enlightening - WHITE TIGERS ARE THE SAME AS ROYAL BENGAL TIGERS. They are not albinos or a separate species but indeed the same species. The white colour occurs in some of them because of a lack of pigmentation due to a rare genetic combination. Wikipedia says, "for a white Bengal tiger to be born, both parents must carry the unusual gene for white colouring, which only happens naturally about once in 10,000 births". It means if you breed a white tiger with a yellow tiger, only a yellow tiger will be born. And if you breed two white tigers, it is still not necessary that a white cub will be born.

White tigers have most abundantly been found in Rewa, Madhya Pradesh, which was a princely state until Independence. There are several hundred white tigers spread across zoos all over the world right now, and they are all progeny of the white tigers originally found in India. Geneticists observe that white tigers are whiter in hot climates and grow darker in colder climes, which means white tigers in India are always snow-white while those in, say, Bristol Zoo are darker. It is also believed that the last white tiger to be seen in the wild was shot dead in 1958, after which they have only survived in captivity. Hence, we had to opt for the safari in Rewa zoo.

Another interesting thing I found out on the internet is that there are several restrictions in place on the breeding of white tigers in zoos across the world, because in a bid to breed more and more of these 'exotic' beasts, zookeepers resort to inbreeding between related tigers, which results not only in the rare white colour but other genetic defects like arched backs, cross-eyes and clubbed feet as well. Humans will literally resort to any means to make that extra buck, ugh.

Our minivan finally arrived and we set foot inside the reserve, which is built like a forest, the natural habitat of tigers. Safari goers can sometimes be really unlucky, because the tiger may simply be lying in the shade of a cave or dense foliage to escape the sun, and the tourists may not get a single glimpse of the beautiful beings. But we were lucky, because we heard news of both the tigers being out and about in the sun, which meant we could easily see them. And oh boy, we did!

One of them, the female, was literally sunning herself by the side of the road in the SCORCHING sun. It made no sense, since she could easily have been in a cooler place. But luck was on our side. So she sat there looking bored and even looked up at us a few times. It was one of the most exhilarating moments I have had in my entire travel life. The other white tiger, the male, was also found a few minutes later, sleeping after his afternoon meal in a cooler part of his pit but still visible from our van.

They say the thrill of encountering Bengal tigers in the wild is unparalleled, and I heartily agree. But to be so close to this rare animal that few people have seen or will ever see in their lifetimes - it was really amazing!

On our way back from sighting the white tigers, we were taken to a few other enclosures around the zoo. I saw a sleeping cheetah, another couple of white tigers, a lion, a few Black Bucks, and a yellow Bengal tiger (who seemed nothing like the regal beasts we had encountered less than 24 hours ago inside Bandhavgarh forest). The highlight of this leg of the trip was the Black Buck, an animal I had first seen in my childhood in fat encyclopaedias (I was a nerdy kid) and a Discovery show on TV. I had always fantasised about seeing a Black Buck for real. In Rewa, I finally saw one in all its glory. (Couldn't get Bhai's face out of my mind for a long while after that though 😂)

The Black Buck was so elegant, and such a poser!😍

We set out on our return journey to Jabalpur after a good two hours at the Rewa reserve spent up, close and personal with wildlife. On the way, we witnessed the most stunning sunset over the Vindhya hills. Needless to say, I stopped the car by the roadside to capture the scene. It turned out rather well, thanks to the cyclist.

Sunsets have a magical quality about them. No matter where you are, and in what kind of a mood or situation, when the sun sets you will find yourself stopping to take notice. I took this shot on the way back from Rewa to Jabalpur. We were passing through a town and evening traffic was upon us. But I stopped the car by the curb and waited for breaks in between passing vehicles to capture this stunning sunset over the Vindhya hills. The appearance of the cyclist was pure bonus.😄

A post shared by Mahima Kohli (@kohliaroundtheworld) on May 3, 2018 at 4:34am PDT

Day 2 in the heart of India went by in a flash, and in hindsight, it was as exhilarating and full of new experiences as Day 1 in Bandhavgarh had been. Back in Jabalpur for the night, I was happy, relaxed, and as excited as ever for more adventure. In the end, Day 3 turned out to be less about adventure and much more about local sights and places made famous by Bollywood. But it revealed a side to Madhya Pradesh that I could scarce have imagined the existence of. More details in the next edition of my three-part MP travelogue!

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The third post in this series about how I spent Day 3 in the Heart of India is coming up super soon, I promise. Meanwhile, head over to my Instagram and show some loooouve! 😍😁

Chandigarh's newest gem: Is this place even real?

There are libraries. There are book cafes. And then there's this little cafe in Chandigarh that is set to combine the two into something really cool - really soon.

I was walking the streets a couple of days ago, exploring the local flavour of Chandigarh unguided and on foot. I may have lost my way a couple of times, but that's how I discovered this newly-opened gem of Sector 7.

The Hedgehog Cafe is striking at first glance, with a beautiful wood-finish facade standing out in the middle of a drab neighbourhood market. I was intrigued by the ceiling-high stack of books along one of its walls and felt compelled to walk in. The inside was tastefully done up in wood, with comfortable seating and mason jar candle lamps on all tables.

It was 6 in the evening and the place was packed. I'd walked in after two girls who got the only empty table, so I was afraid I wouldn't get space to sit. But I did - at an L-shaped workstation in the far corner, with a huge bookshelf right overhead and a stack of books and a little plant on the counter. I couldn't have been happier!

With some help from who I assume was the wife of one of the owners, I placed an order for nutella filled French toast and coffee. While the order was being prepared, I picked up the slimmest book I could spot on the bookshelf - Tim Burton's The Melancholy Death of Oyster Boy and other stories. I was determined to finish a book that evening and decided the slimmer, the better. I finished two books that evening.

The food came and I was eating when the kind lady from before checked in on me, asking if the presentation was fine. It turned out that the cafe was just three weeks old, and they were still trying to decide on the best presentation, but to avoid delaying my order, she'd had the chef spend less time on presentation and was sceptical now. I was taken a little aback. Did presentation matter THAT much? I was pleasantly surprised and assured her it was perfect, as was the taste. Not too sweet, just the way I'd like it.

We got to talking and I told her I was from Delhi and travelling solo around Chandigarh. She seemed happy, and after she left, the cafe manager, Ankit, approached me and we had a long chat.

The cafe is owned by two booklovers, a Punjabi who lives in Mohali and a Keralaite lady based out of Doha, Qatar. Their menu was finalised after thorough research by the former's wife, and their books were all brought in from Delhi, though I spotted some imported books with rates marked in foreign currency as well.

But floor-to-ceiling book racks, good food and cosy decor aside, what really sets this cafe apart from all the other book cafes I've been?

The Hedgehog Cafe has plans to start lending out books to readers. Like a real library. And they don't mind if you sit around all day reading. No questions asked.

It means you can walk in, read to your heart's content, have conversations over coffee and food, AND take your favourite books home to finish at your leisure. 

Is this place even real?

Lending out books is something only cafes abroad do. No book cafe in india has done it so far, and I'm really excited about The Hedgehog Cafe deciding to do it. They say it'll take a week odd to roll out. Methinks, if the idea takes off, it could make this cafe really popular with booklovers and attract locals and tourists alike.

Ankit, the manager, was very forthcoming about his own life and experiences in the hospitality industry. He dreams of opening a niche cafe in the jungles of Baijnath in his home state, Himachal Pradesh. I asked him if he knew how to operate a DSLR. He didn't. So I taught him (as much as you can in a minute) and he was sweet enough to take pictures as I climbed up on the cafe's 20,000 rupees' worth wooden ladder (a dream I think every booklover unconsciously harbours).

After a long chat about cafes, dreams, and the best Indian cities to live and work in, I had to bid goodbye but with the promise to return soon for a coffee we left pending. I left The Hedgehog Cafe thanking my luck for having spotted its door and for the evening that unfolded.

Over the following weekend, I explored more offbeat places around Chandigarh, the City Beautiful. Stories coming up soon on the blog. Meanwhile, check out my YouTube channel and subscribe (I'm just starting out making travel videos and would love some encouragement and feedback). Follow me on Instagram for more photos and stories.

Weekend Getaways from Bombay | Silvassa, Dadra & Nagar Haveli

Silvassa is a dusty, sun-kissed town in the westernmost part of India. It is spread over a small area with a permanent population of about a lakh, mostly comprising the indigenous tribes of the Konkan region, while another couple of lakh form its transient population - those who come in from neighbouring states for work and trade.

Known mainly for its industries, Silvassa is the capital of Dadra & Nagar Haveli, an erstwhile Portuguese settlement and now Union Territory of India. Surely you've never found Silvassa on any common list of tourist getaways from Bombay. Must be a rather boring place, right, not to have featured on any popular travel guide or listicle?

Wrong.

Silvassa is a hidden gem that travellers are yet to discover. It is a perfect weekend getaway from Bombay (and nearby areas), and for every kind of traveller too. Whether you want a weekend picnic with family, a solo wildlife expedition, or just a relaxing sojourn from daily life - this town will not disappoint.

 

Witness the beauty of Silvassa captured on my camera lens (and then I will tell you how to plan).

Breathtaking view from the top of Madhuban Dam on the river Daman Ganga (the Ganga of Daman?) You can actually take a walk along the narrow road pictured, provided you've taken prior permission from the project office 2 km downtown.

There's a beautiful park and a lot of greenery at the Madhuban dam site. Found this jumpy little Black Drongo there that took a tremendous amount of effort to capture.

Get up, close and personal (but not too much) with a mating pair of lions at the Lion Safari, Vasona. There's another lion on the premises, but it is sick/old and doesn't socialise with its human visitors.

Lioness loves to pose.

Apparently, so does the sleepy lion.

"Ho ho ho, Merry Christmas! No, I'm not a reindeer. I'm a Sambhar, can't you see?"

Spotted many of these gorgeous Spotted Deer/Chital during our open jeep safari at the Dadra and Nagar Haveli Wildlife Sanctuary.

"What are YOU looking at?"

Boat ride at the floating jetty on Dudhani Lake. Astonishingly peaceful experience.

Wondrous Dudhani Lake. And remember, this is Silvassa, bang in the middle of the piping hot state of Gujarat.

Our boatman belonged to one of the indigenous tribes of Silvassa and was quite happy to talk. These tribal boatmen aren't allowed to own these boats and are given measly wages to work for the boat-owners. We tipped him generously, but I'm not sure many people do.

Swaminarayan temple: I loved it for its architecture, but not quite for its gender-based segregation practice. Yes, men sit at the front, nearest to the idols, while women sit behind them in a cordoned-off section. Indian temples, heh.

Such views all around.

Convinced? On to matters of more importance then.

How to reach

Silvassa is 27 kilometres from Vapi railway junction. Vapi is easily reachable by train from all major cities. (It took me 2 hours on the August Kranti Rajdhani from Bombay to reach Vapi). From there, a mere 35-rupee shared auto ride will take you to Silvassa bus stand. The best thing about this town is that you can walk everywhere. And if you aren't a fan of sweating it out in the heat, cheap autos are always at hand.

Things to see and do

The entire city of Silvassa, with all its wonderful sights and sounds, can be covered in one day. We booked an AC cab at INR 1500 for 8 hours, and roamed the city from noon to sunset. But that meant we spent less time at each location. If you're there for two days, I'd suggest you divide your sightseeing over two days and enjoy every site at leisure. Experiences not to miss include the Lion Safari at Vasona, the Madhuban Reservoir on River Daman Ganga, the Deer Safari at Dadra and Nagar Haveli Wildlife Sanctuary, the boat ride at Dudhani Lake, and the Tribal Museum (a very fascinating journey into the culture of the indigenous tribes of the region). While the latter is free, the tickets to the rest of the listed places are extremely cheap.

Where to stay

Silvassa has plenty of budget and luxury hotels to choose from (here's a sample list for reference). Personally, I'd suggest you do not stay at Hotel Pioneer. Its reviews on the internet may speak otherwise, but my experience was extremely frustrating. The hotel was fairly empty, and there was no further reservation for our room, but the hotel management insisted that we check out on time, despite repeated requests to let us stay a couple of hours more because our train was in the evening. The management had no qualms in watching two women travellers, one of them aged 50+, sit uncomfortably on the couch in the stuffy hotel foyer for 2 hours in the heat. You won't want to run into problems like these, knowing that the hotel staff will not help. There are hotels that offer much better service at the same price for the same kind of rooms in Silvassa. Look around and settle for one where you're most comfortable.

Pro Tip: Club Silvassa and Daman into one trip

In hindsight, I've come to realise you can fit both Silvassa (D & N Haveli) and Daman (Daman & Diu) into one weekend's itinerary. You can reach Vapi on Saturday morning, spend the day exploring Silvassa, stay the night, and then move on to Daman (30 km away) the next morning for a day full of Portuguese forts, churches, and a beach quite unlike your usual west coast beaches. An auto or taxi ride from Daman will take you back to Vapi on Sunday evening. Weekend successful? I'd say so.

Just your neighbourhood travelling girl with her camera.

Drop me a line if you're planning a trip to Silvassa. I'd love to help! Comment/Share/Connect on Facebook if you liked this travelogue and would want to see more.

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This post was originally published on my new blog, Delhi Girl in Bombay. While that project is very close to my heart, I have recently moved back to Delhi and am not sure if and when I will be back. I am therefore transferring all my posts from that blog to this one. There's some interesting content out there, so stay tuned!