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Sunday, 18 May 2014

'Achhe din' may mean nightmares for some.

It is freezing cold. The surroundings are cloaked in a dense fog; I cannot see my feet. The uneven terrain adds to the difficulty in finding the way. I pull harder on my jacket and trudge on, squinting to catch glimpse of safer footing. It has been raining for two days now; there are ditches and pools full of muck everywhere. We lumber on for a while, until the fog caves a little to reveal our destination. Endless rows of tents mud-walled, tarpaulin-roofed stand in a sprawl on a huge clearing. The place is desolate save for the occasional child skipping out, only to cast a shy sidelong glance at us before disappearing inside a tent again. There are animals too; I see a goat and a few hens in the distance. We turn towards the driver following us, ask him to park our traveller on the side of the narrow road, and start walking towards the nearest tent.



























I am standing amid a group of villagers in Suneithi village of Kairana district in western Uttar Pradesh, which witnessed a brutal communal riot in August-September 2013. A couple of women stand in front of me with their husbands and infant children in tow. Another young boy stares at us with suspicion while tugging at his mother's dress. He has a running nose and furtive eyes. On my side are an old grandmother and a young widow. They are visibly elated to see a group of sheher-wallahs in their camp. For them, it means just one thing aid. Financial assistance, items of daily use like toiletries and solar lanterns, or maybe the elusive promise of pucca houses. For them, our arrival gives rise to a plethora of hopes. Their expectant eyes cause the dense air to come down on our shoulders slightly heavier.




















































I ask them about the incident and its aftermath. Their eyes get beady and distant. The Muslims of Muzaffarnagar and adjoining villages had been somewhat aware of the Hindu-Muslim tensions brewing in the village community for some time, one of the men explains. Then one day the news came: they were cornered by a horde of men from the area's majority community, the Jats, and were to flee for their lives. It was all very sudden; the men kept watch over their houses at night while the women made preparations for the escape. Nobody slept that night. Morning came and they fled carrying minimum possible belongings, leaving their homes, lives, and livelihoods behind. Some were lucky enough to have escaped before the real violence descended; many others saw their family members and neighbours being cut into halves or burnt alive. It sends a chill down my spine.

I change the topic and ask them about their present situation and future plans. The women instantly break into laments about their living conditions. There is no proper source of water, no fuel to cook, no beds to sleep in but torn blankets, and very little medical aid by way of visits by some charitable doctors. The recent untimely rains have caused water to accumulate on the floor of their tents, and children are contracting pneumonia from the cold. Indeed, a couple of children have died of pneumonia in the past week. The women of the camp barely manage to scrape together some firewood and crop leftovers from nearby forests or farms to use as fuel. My mind is busy contemplating the immense environmental and health hazard such kind of living poses for the community and those living in the surrounding areas. I refrain from making any mention of it.

The men chime in. There is precious little money, and that is spent in getting food for the family, leaving nothing for them to invest in setting up even a small business. There are sparse job opportunities, and those too, at nearby construction sites or brick kilns. Many refugee families assert that they are originally farmers or agricultural workers and consider it beneath their stature to work in brick kilns. I ask if they'd rather live off the dwindling aid packages from outside, or forget class concerns for a while and go to work wherever they can find it. The women vehemently oppose the latter prospect. They insist that they'll sell wares or work on construction sites if need be. The mutual knowledge that such work opportunities for a migrant Muslim population are almost impossible to find in the surrounding villages is silently brushed under the carpet. I don't pry further for fear of breaking their bubble of comfort, or much worse, incensing them










* * *
Eight months since that fateful episode, winter has subsided but the worst is still not over for the several thousands of refugees who continue to live in those godforsaken shelters. The aid has all but stopped flowing in; people seem to have forgotten about the refugees. The unfortunate incidents are after all several months in the past now. People have found new charities to devote their time and money to. The refugees realise this and do not depend on incoming help to survive and to feed their children. In a desperate attempt to make a living of their own, many have taken to the surrounding brick kilns and spend 16 hours a day earning just enough to make ends meet. A livelihood outside of those kilns is still a far-fetched dream for most of them.

I, along with a group of 15-20 friends, collected over 3 lakh rupees from family, friends, and whatever other sources we could think of, and made three successive visits, over the course of two months, to a few camps in close vicinity of each other. On our first visit we distributed items of necessity folding beds and warm clothes to combat the extreme January cold, mugs and buckets with lids for storing water, bathing and washing soaps for sanitation, and stationery for the children who are being deprived of schooling.




























 
On our second visit, we talked personally to the men and women in groups and brainstormed ideas on how to help them build a livelihood to break out of this vicious circle of poverty and dependence. Most of them said they did not want any beds or buckets or clothes anymore. If only we could help them set up long-term prospective businesses or help them get employment, they would earn for themselves and be grateful to us forever. It was an eye-opener for us.



























 
On our third and final visit, we were men and women on a mission. We arranged for the refugee women to be provided sewing machines and work from the village sarpanch's brother, Dawood bhai, who had been working for their welfare incessantly and of his own volition. We also set up a business model with his help, wherein we gave money to meticulously chosen groups of 5 or 10 men as a loan to buy implements or bicycles and start working with their respective skills. They would then have to return a certain amount as interest on the loans to Dawood bhai each month, as evidence that they were indeed generating income and not squandering off the money. The interest obtained would be used to extend similar loans to more such groups, eventually sustaining a self-sufficient model for their economic empowerment. We also helped widowed and elderly women with requisite funds and knowledge to set up their own independent bangles businesses.

It was the most beautiful and gratifying feeling in the world when the women on our third visit recognised us, confided their more intimate problems in us, and gave us small presents to show their gratitude. All the villagers men, women, and children were very hospitable and kind to us. It made everything much more than worthwhile. In hindsight, the entire experience has had a profound impact on my thoughts and life and will stay with me forever.

* * *
When asked if they'd like to return home, the displaced villagers of Shamli refuse point blank. There's nothing left for them to return to. They wish to make their present abode their permanent abode and start life afresh. If only the government would have it, though. They are slowly being evicted or forced to leave the lands they are living on, without the government making any efforts to rehabilitate them or grant substantial monetary assistance or security of life in their native villages. Being a minority community doesn't come easy in a country like India; that too, a community that has historically been subjected to prolonged subjugation and popular disdain. Things were different between the Hindus and Muslims of India before the British decided to play Divide-and-Rule. Things haven't been the same ever since. We can see the ramifications today in the frequent communal riots.

With the elections long over and the incumbent government in power, the political purpose of the riots has been served. But things are probably not going to get any better for these helpless displaced Muslims. Rather worse. The people's mandate has delivered its decision. An election fought on the basis of communal ideology is easy to win with the support of a majority of the population, but to deliver on the promises made to the Hindu majority population will entail oppressing and denigrating the Muslim minority population even further. Achhe din aane wale hain, par sirf satta ke (Good times are in the offing, but only for those in power). It is a lone, long battle from here for those who have no home, no livelihood, and above all, a threat to their lives in their own land. Power is now in the hands of those who never took responsibility for their past failures (and possible involvement) in the horrendous communal riots that have rocked the country's Hindu-Muslim unity in the past. It is a mockery of democracy, a victory of money and media power over truth and merit. The country's economic development may touch the skies in the next five years but the moral and secular fabric of the society is only going downhill from here.


* * *
Common people, including some of my own friends, are divided on how and why the riots happened. A few friends even believe those stories about Muslim men luring Hindu girls into marriages and converting them to Islam in an organised manner, and about the riots being a 'just' retaliation by Hindus to teach the Muslim community a lesson. I have no respect for anyone who supports or promotes such ideas and ideologies despite the best of education. The country is in dire need of 'thinking' Indians. It is easy to blame the 'other', but to undergo what thousands of innocent victims have is a different ballgame altogether.

I can only pray now. For the welfare of the thousands of displaced riot victims and their kith and kin. For my country not to go to the dogs in the coming years. And for my fellow Indians to have the courage and good sense to strive against all odds to uphold India's fragile secular fabric and dignity in the face of communal elements constantly inciting them not to. Amen.

Saturday, 3 May 2014

Time to Act. Finally.

Main bahut pareshan thi. Mujhse koi ladka baat nahi karta tha, mera phone kitne kitne din tak bajta hi nahi tha. Inbox mein bhi sirf MTS customer care ke messages bhare rehte the. Main apni zindagi se bahut dukhi thi.
Phir maine Facebook par account banaya, DP ki jagah ek model ki photo lagayi aur kewl language ka istemaal karna shuru kiya. Ab main sirf Yo, Frenzzz, Guyzzz and galzzzz ka use karti thi. Log mujhse baat karne lage. Ladke mujhe fraandship requests bhejne lage, aur to aur mere last status par 52 likes bhi aye the. Main bahut achha mehsus kar rhi hu. All thanks to Facebook! (y)

*

The rest of the post has almost nothing to do with those opening lines (which you have to admit you read in that exact tone.) Except for one lesson that I learnt from this otherwise nonsensical monologue of an obviously desperate girl: the importance of taking things into your own hands in order to bring significant changes into your life.

I've been in a rut these past few weeks. Nothing seems to be going right. I feel alienated. I've been lazy, laidback, morose, occasionally even sad enough to be considered depressed. My productive output has dropped to drastically low levels. And try as I may, I haven't been able to snap out of this state of limbo for weeks.

However, something just sporadically occurred to me today. You see, there's a simple explanation for this state of mine, which for some reason had been eluding me all this while. But it is clear as crystal to me now. I have involuntarily been in a self-destruct phase for a couple of months. I am a restless and energetic person by default - sitting in a place without productive activity for long makes me morose and lazy, which in turn makes me sick. It becomes a vicious circle from there - no productive activity --> sickness --> too much sleep --> laziness --> no productive activity - and so on and on it proceeds.

I think I need to do something really productive with my life, something I absolutely like doing or want to do. That way I would do some constructive work, while also keeping my mind off depressing things and keeping it all healthy and active. It should probably help me focus better on my studies too. What a brainwave! No wonder it never occurred to me for so long. I was just so busy being sick and lazy!

This is however no magic pill. It is just an effort I need to make in order to turn my life around, maybe pamper and pep myself up a bit. I was living in a shell all this time, cut off from my real world, isolated from all things that inspire me. In the field I am pursuing, it is said that the lesser number of distractions and interests you have, the better it is for your success. I think I let this perception get to my head. I completely stopped doing the things that I absolutely love doing - the only 3 things that have always given me pure joy - reading, writing and travelling.

I've had so much to write about that my blog dashboard is flooded with draft posts that never see the light of day. I also stopped taking up freelance work, so no money's been coming in and I've been scraping off of my parents for so many months (*hangs head in shame*). I've also stopped reading - after 22 entire years spent reading novels left right and centre, even in exams, on trips and in isolated corners of cafes! I feel horrible all of a sudden. I picked up Narcopolis during my Bombay trip in January, but a few tens of pages into it, I chucked it into some godforsaken corner of my bookshelf. Then followed The Lowland, only to meet the same fate. My bookshelf is overflowing with the most wonderful books, all lying there biting dust. And I haven't looked at them in ages. I'm a terrible, terrible person. No, I really am.

The travelling bit is a little trickier than that. Study schedules and health issues, as well as the lack of companionship, prevent me from hanging out or visiting places of my interest much. It's a very sad life, what these (us) civil service aspirants lead. But for better or for worse, I have very willingly and passionately chosen this field for myself and will (have to) see it through to the end, no matter how I manage to do that.

One might wonder what I do in my spare time, though, since my studies have obviously not been going well, and I am not pursuing any of my favourite activities either. Well, I guess confessions are in order tonight! So here it is - I utilize most of my spare time either playing card games in my phone, watching movies and TV serial reruns on the laptop or reading Thought Catalog (and related) articles on the Web. It's an utter waste of time, I know. But realizations don't always come in time. I realize now, what a toll my stupid lazy-ass habits have been taking on my physical and mental health. It is an addiction, all of this - games, Internet surfing and movie watching. It sucks you into its warp so hard that you cannot muster the resolve to get out of it and onto your own feet. It cripples you and lets all your creative potential go to waste.

But not anymore. Things are about to change.

(NOTE: I had gone to bed about 2 hours ago. But these thoughts kept me awake, and all of a sudden I jumped out of bed and opened the laptop to write it all down before it conveniently slips my mind tomorrow morning and I fall back into this horrible, life-wrecking rut again.)

So friends, Romans and countrymen, lend me your ears!

For I have resolved, with effect from tonight, that I shall not watch any more movies or TV serial reruns, no matter how free or bored I am. If I do happen to get lured towards the Movies folder, I shall take the drastic step of actually deleting the folder or transferring it to an external hard drive. (Na rahega baans, na bajegi bansuri :D) I shall restrict my freecell-playing and article-reading hobbies to a bare minimum, and intersperse them between studies and other activities. Whenever I am bored or tired of studying, I shall either go for a walk or indulge in some light exercises. Most importantly, I shall devote my leisure hours to reading all of those amazing books I have stacked over the months. I also resolve to clear out all those drafts from my blogger homepage, by completing and posting them here after all. A much-needed boost to my dwindling blog activity and a creative boost to my starved mind. Two birds with one arrow, FTW!

I am also starting my freelance work again, so you will soon be seeing my posts on a well-known travel-related website (more on that, later). The creative juices are all ready and raring to flow again. I just really really wish this adrenaline rush lasts just enough time to get me started on all these life-altering lifestyle changes, before sickness takes over my body and mind again.

Until then, ciao folks, and do keep the encouraging comments coming in. They make my life just that teeny bit better, and much much happier. \(^_^)/

Sunday, 6 April 2014

Sleep paralysis

There is going to be a time - probably that one lonely night - when all that's gone wrong with your life will come and haunt you dead. It'll all come back to you, playing out like a motion picture before your mind's eyes. All the things you've done wrong. All the wrong people you've been with. All those hurtful things people have done to you. All the problems that plague your wellbeing, crush your inner self and keep you awake nights. And in that moment, all the good things and better times would cease to matter.

You'll be sleep paralysed, your hands and legs immobile, while your own personal demons devour your peace of mind. The things that go on in the back of your head which you know you can't say out loud for fear. Fear they'll not understand you. Worse, they will not hear what you say. What you really want to say. They'll walk right past you. Tell you it's all happened to them too. It happens to everyone. You're no different. They'll tell you you're just paranoid. It'll pass.

Only, you know it won't. Some things don't change, no matter how many days or months or years go by. They remain the same. But some things do change. They get worse with time. They're like a fork held against your spine. With each blow, it digs deeper, pierces your flesh a little farther. Red fluid oozes out. But you don't cry out. You bear the pain like a brave soldier. But that won't do. Life will keep poking and piercing you with a fork till you cry out. Loud.

There are things people do to you that they don't understand. They affect you in ways that change you from the inside out. They remind you everyday of how utterly wrong things can go in life, and how, somehow, it was all meant to happen to you in one little lifetime. The world wants to show you all it has got. Oh, so you're the chosen one! But you don't cry out loud. Why? Why do you cower, burn inside, but not tell? Probably because you're a coward. You avoid conflict. You avoid 'talks'. You'd much rather sit in a corner, pretend to read a book and secretly mope. You'll muffle your sobs with the blanket at night so the one sleeping next to you won't hear. You want to be heard. But you won't reach out. Because they don't see the real you. They see what they want to see. And you cater to their needs. Because you don't think it is worth the effort to tell them you're different.

Your friends will try to be there for you, with you. Your friends love you, don't they? But they don't understand you. [Do you understand yourself? Who are you?] They say they are there for you. That they love you. But do you love them? [Who do you love? Do you love at all? Is there any such things as love?] You have no love inside of you to give. Who are the people you call your friends? Who are the people they say are your family? Would they know if you were dying inside every single day? Wouldn't they see through your mask? They're your family and friends after all. They're supposed to look at you and not see through you like you were a wraith. They're supposed to be a part of you. A part that's not as dysfunctional as the rest of you is. But are they there?

You're afraid to talk. You can have entire conversations inside your head. You are your own friend and your own therapist. But you fear talking in the real world. You avoid phone calls and messages. Maybe you don't want to talk for a while. Maybe for a while you don't need someone else to tell you things you console yourself with all the time. You're in limbo that you can't get out of. It's like a state of sleep paralysis that won't end. But you want it to end. Only you can't figure out how.

What do you do when ugly pictures of your life haunt you night and day and suck the soul out of you? But if only there were such a self-help guide available. You could watch a movie, write a blog, try sleeping with your eyes open or take a long walk. But you cannot erase things embedded in your memory. All you can do then is make it through the night somehow and start again the next morning, with a brand new mask to hide that vacant expression and those puffy eyes. You can mope for a night, maybe two, but you cannot stop time. If you cannot make things any better, you'd rather get on with life the way it is. Make peace with reality if you will. Because reality isn't always beautiful, and you cannot always be hopeful. But life has to go on.

Sunday, 23 March 2014

Friendship that lasts forever

It is probably a little too late to be sharing this now, but what the heck. I'll go ahead and do it anyway.

Remember how I've written time and again about my college bestie Rose (a.k.a Sushmita) - about all the times we've had and the amazing birthday surprises and holidays we've enjoyed together during our 4 years at engineering college? Ever since the course ended last year, we have seen lesser and lesser of each other, not for lack of trying though, but generally owing to our respective career and higher studies commitments. Yet, every time we do meet, it is like the "us" from college, all over again, only calmer and more mature. But everything else - saying the same things at the same time, reading each other's minds, gossiping about the people in our lives or crow-watching - remains pretty much the same.
So this past month, or maybe the month before that, during this particular spate of a few free days I had, I went over to her blog to read up on all she'd written that I had missed because of my exam. A while later, after a handful of interesting reads, I came across a post that took my breath away for a good two seconds. It was a post that had won her the Runner-up prize in an Indiblogger contest. But that's not the part that took the breath away.

Apparently the post was about me. Entirely. About. ME.

It was a poignant little post recounting the most significant moments from our years together at college by means of the reproduction of a few of her diary entries over the months (that I never even knew for certain she wrote so regularly). The first time we sat together, our first college fest, mad stalking of crushes, birthday surprises, our one and only holiday trip together, the time she broke her leg - it was a nostalgic trip down memory lane, taking me back to all those years we'd spent together having the time of our lives. It was beautiful. Have a look at it here.

I revisited her blog again tonight and reread the entire post. It still makes me nostalgic and at the same time blush. It is indeed the perfect ode to our friendship, or rather, to the first four years of it. Because, despite all hardships and ups and downs, some friendships do last forever. To us, and to the longevity of our friendship. Amen.

Tuesday, 4 March 2014

Goa Diaries - II

A big sorry to y'all folks for such an inordinate delay in returning with the Goa diaries. I've been really caught up, and am probably going to remain so for some time to come. But hey! Good news is that I've finally got a laptop and a decent Internet connection at my present location, so I now have the liberty to write whenever I like, from wherever I am. That's something to be upbeat about, now, isn't it?

Anyhow, coming back to the reason why I'm here today...ooh. Goa! I just sort of light up every time I think of that place and the visit that was. It's a lovely getaway from the sad, monotonous life we lead in the metro cities - away from ourselves, away from mother nature. It almost reminds me of Marx's theory of Alienation. But let's not get carried away.

The period from December to February is considered the best time to be in Goa, which is corroborated by the endless bucket loads of 'fun in the sun/frolicking on the beach' pictures that have been sprouting left, right and center on my Facebook newsfeed lately. Jeez, people! I was there too last month, and I had real fun. But my profile isn't overflowing with endless pictures of me in flowing skirts and beach hats, is it? Seriously, what's all that brouhaha about?

Nevertheless, continuing from where I left off in the previous post...

We touched down on a couple of beaches, Anjuna and Calangute to be precise, while on our way back from Aguada. It was the same everywhere - huge parties of scantily clad tourists taking sunbaths, locals strolling on the sands, youngsters going gaga over water scooters and paragliders - I was personally not too big on any of those.

The classic name-on-the-sands picture that I heard is mandatory to be taken if you're in Goa. Check.

Okay so that's one of my pics-on-the-beach. Let's for a second forget my previous tirade against them.

Here's another. Sorry, couldn't help. My blog, my say! :D

Coco-palm love!

Interestingly, I learnt from a local coconut seller that the luscious coconuts with the water and sweet kernel that are a favorite all around Goa aren't actually homegrown but brought in from Kerala. Clearly taken aback, I asked what use the native Goan coconuts were put to, only to be told that they were used as dry coconuts for cooking, making oil and other products. In fact coconut milk, coconut fiber, the leaves and even trunk of the palm are all put to good use by the natives in thatching homes, making canoes, hats, decorative material and baskets, and many more such products for domestic and commercial use. Above all, the world-renowned Goan liquor Feni (or Fenny), sold exclusively in Goa, is brewed from coconuts. Another variant is brewed from cashews too. It is inexpensive, exquisitely aromatic and ahem...quite potent.

Can't say for sure if that's Calangute or Anjuna Beach. Certainly one of the two - both were equally happening and crowded.
We didn't stay on any of these beaches for long, so that by the time the sun was beginning its downward journey, we had reached the point where the Santa Monica stood, waiting to take us on its much famed Sunset Cruise down Mandovi river.

The cruise on Mandovi river atop which we spent an evening beholding some Goan culture (and lots of drunken debauchery).

It would be a one hour cultural extravaganza, they said. There would be good food, they said. It'll be superb fun, they said. If only I had a penny for every broken promise, I'd have completed much of this trip for free. Sadly, in the name of culture, there were these 4 dancers who appeared onstage every 15 minutes, in a different costume every time, each more shabbily donned than the previous. They put up for us what were supposedly three of Goa's native dances. To me it looked nothing like dancing. It was more like they had been forced onto stage and told to move any way they liked. It was pretty disappointing. However, during the short breaks in which the dancers changed costume, the seemingly invisible emcee called random groups from amongst the audience onto the floor to shake a leg. It was almost hilarious, watching people put their funniest moves on display.


In the name of food, there was overpriced bhel and alcohol being sold by one of the most uptight and rude men I ever saw on the other side of a food stall. Even to ask for an extra plastic fork or a colder beverage made him furious. Needless to say, we went hungry. The lowest level on the boat was fashioned as a disco, but was overpopulated with drunk guys and couples oblivious to the world. The ordeal thankfully ended in less than an hour.



And thus our second day in Goa ended with us sitting on the porch of the guest house sipping coffee. Exhausted but cheerful. The beauty of Goa and the calmness of the sea seem to almost seep into your pores, making you contemplative and serene. Nothing is bothersome enough to distract you from the sheer beauty of nature anymore. Seriously, if you haven't been to Goa yet, it is never too late my friends. Take the plunge.

Meanwhile, I'm enjoying the retreating Delhi winters and the vibrant colors of spring. The gardeners around here are doing a wonderful job of keeping the campus beaming with the brightest of blooms. Life's beautiful, if not any less stressful.

Until I write again, ciao folks!

Sunday, 26 January 2014

Goa Diaries - I

There's nothing quite like a holiday in the sun while your fellow cityfolk ice up in the deep freezer that Delhi has become this winter. It is mind-numbingly cold here, and I'm practically chilled to the bone while typing this out. Thanks to my lovely set of parents, however, I was lucky enough to get to enjoy some sunshine, twice too, in the last few weeks. December took us on a getaway to the magnificent mahals and colorful bazaars of Jaipur. And this month brought for us a beautiful sojourn down south, to Bombay and then Goa, far far away from even the mention of a cold day.

Bombay did not make as big an impression in my maiden visit as I had been hearing from all quarters that it would. Nevertheless, I leave out scope for it to grow on me with a couple more visits in future. It is different from Delhi in many respects, however, and the debate on which one is better shall forever go on and on. I have a lot to say on the subject too, but for that I've reserved an entirely different post (to follow soon).

Goa, on the contrary, was mesmerizing from the word go. It turned out to be more amazing than I had ever thought it would be. Abundantly laden coconut trees, luxurious in their bounty. Ceaseless beautiful beaches bathed in warm sunlight. Cool salty water that tingles every hair on your skin. It was a real treat to the senses.

We spent less than 4 days in Goa, so we could only cover some of the major attractions the place boasts of. A more thorough exploration of the state I have reserved for my next trip, with friends and not family this time. Goa is a visual delight, with much less to talk about and much more to see. In keeping with that, I'll be coming up with more pictures than words, letting the sights speak for themselves.


Our first day was spent recovering from the endless train travel and exploring the area around our guest house in Dabolim, very near to Goa International Airport. Interestingly, the airport has recently been refurbished and a majestic new terminal inaugurated only last month. The next day we set out, with summer hats and high spirits, to explore the Northern part of Goa, car and driver in tow.


I fell in love with the coconut palm the moment I saw one. Their presence just makes the skyline gorgeous!

We first visited Aguada Fort built by the Portuguese in the 17th century as a docking and watering place for ships. It is situated atop a hill, with a panoramic view of the vast Arabian Sea right below.




Iconic scenes from movies like Rang De Basanti and Dil Chahta Hai have been shot within this very fort. The view is to literally die for.



A walk around the fort grounds and some 50 photos later, we moved onto the Dolphin Cruise that moves from the beach down the hill. They take small groups of 10-12 on a motorboat, starting from the mouth of river Mandovi out into the Arabian Sea, where we look out for dolphins, seagulls and kingfishers, whichever and how-many-ever you can spot.

As we set out on the one-hour cruise, to the right we saw the hill that we had just been atop, with the Aguada Fort lighthouse visible in the distance. The guide pointed out the lower part of the Fort, which is still being used as a prison by the Goa State authorities. To be out on a boat with a bunch of strangers in an unknown place, with a prison housing drug peddlers and hardened criminals right in front of my eyes...eerie thought. Glad I escaped safely with only good memories of that boat ride.

Lower Aguada Fort, housing part of the Goa State Prison



Sunkissed and rather ecstatic, Yours Truly.


45 minutes of the cruise had gone past and none of us had yet spotted anything to make the dolphin cruise live up to its name. We were crestfallen, and stopped looking around even as the boatman started steering the vessel back towards the shore. On the way back, he had a word with another boat's guide (not a word of which we could understand) and steered the boat in the direction the guide pointed towards. Almost at the same time, all eyes and ears perked up as we heard the unmistakable sound of a dolphin's call, almost like a shrill whistle. And then they showed up - a pack of 4 dolphins playfully swimming in and out of the water in such perfectly alternating synchronisation, that only 2 of them were visible above the surface at a time. They moved like a wave of grey matter, with snouts and a slippery, rubbery exterior. They frolicked and whistled, disappearing from sight and then reappearing. It was a sight to behold! I captured it all on video, though it was too large in size to be uploaded here (might upload it on YouTube sometime and reproduce the link here).

A rare picture of a stealthy little dolphin I somehow managed to capture.

White seagulls taking off of the water. Bad picture I know, but the actual sight was amazing.

The beautiful blue waters with land only at a great distance set many a pulse racing.

A medieval era fort, a boat cruise out on the sea and a tête-à-tête with a pod of dolphins - and the day had only just started. There was more to follow. Till the next time I write, go plan a Goa holiday, you! It's peak season, and I'm sure you're somewhat titillated already. ;)

Monday, 13 January 2014

Rail Gaadi

I sit on the top berth of an express train, lightly rocking back and forth to its rhythm, oddly reminded of the classic Ashok Kumar track that gives this post its title. The train winds its way to, um...who cares where it's going? It has different destinations for different people. But for me it moves in synch with my heart beat.

I've always been a hopeless lover of train travel. It is an almost childlike obsession. Everything about a train journey makes my innards launch into a series of overjoyed flips. The chug chug of the engine. The deafening blast of the siren announcing departures and arrivals, sending people into a flurry of panicked activity every time. Coolies in red, spilling in and out of the platforms, lugging impossible amounts of baggage on every possible body part they can. Hapless squatters scattered around the platform, destitute but purposeful. The feeling one gets as the train starts moving slowly out of the station, flanked by happy and sad goodbyes on both sides, inside and out. The feeling of leaving your home behind in pursuit of a new place, for every city, no matter how often visited, holds the charm of an entirely new place for me.

All you ever got to do on a train journey is eat, sleep, look out the window and maybe read a book or magazine, or play games. I'm not one for striking up lengthy conversations with copassengers, unless someone REALLY interesting happens to sit beside me (which rarely ever happens to me, alas). I once made friends with a Russian student on board a train to Pune. It was quite coincidental that I was a national level chess player back then, so we had something to talk about. That was as far as I went, though, in being adventurous or forthcoming on a train. Otherwise, it is just the window, a good book and I, happy and content in each other's company.


I've taken along Jeet Thayil's famed Narcopolis to read.
An appreciative note about the Rajdhani express also deserves mention here. It may not be the Japanese superfast Maglev, but it is cool nevertheless, and fast. Real fast. We'd already crossed the borders of 3 States within 2 hours of setting foot on the train

Anyhow, it's getting livelier in here as people are getting up and coffee is being served. Yum. It's about time I got down and about with my routine of eat-read-look out the window all over again. Ah, the joys of a carefree train ride. I wish it could go on and on, and on.



[This post was written on a train 2 days ago, but owing to poor network connectivity, I couldn't upload it right then. So here's reproducing it, as is. Pardon the poor formatting please, mobile blogging isn't as much a piece of cake as it's hyped to be. Will be back with another post very soon. Stay hooked!]